Frequently Asked Questions Customers Ask about Our Exclusive Ceramic Bezel Removal Tool

1. Why can’t my expert watchmaker just remove it? Why do I need this tool?

The ceramic bezel inserts used on Rolex watches are very unique in their design. Functionally, they work very similarly to the old aluminum inserts, being sized precisely for the bezels and fitting in via pressure rather than adhesive.

This is a great decision for longevity, as any glue used to hold parts on is subject to degradation and eventual failure; there is no way that a Rolex bezel will simply “fall out”. But by that same token, there is also the issue of how to remove them without risking the safety of oneself and the part being taken out.

Ceramic bezels are akin to trying to remove a piece of glass that has been pressed tightly into a metal frame; it is possible, but is a very precise task to do and even the slightest error can be catastrophic. The traditional way that most attempt to remove these inserts is using a press, similar to that which would be used to press bezels and crystals onto watches. While this works, this presumes the bezel is perfect in its alignment (which most watchmakers can attest isn’t universally true), and the metal dies used to perform the task must be perfectly flat to interface with the surfaces of the insert and outer ring.

Even assuming those, then there is the question of technique: the pressure to remove the part is significant, but if it releases and overshoots even just a couple of millimeters, the insert is at risk of being crushed by the dies themselves. So control must be absolutely maintained without exception, a tall order depending on the type of press being used.

Taking all of this into account, it is unsurprising that a great number of watchmakers will outright refuse to tackle the work, and a significant number of those that do end up with a broken insert.

That is what our tool was designed to remedy. It has been engineered to be effective in removing inserts as safely as can be done–while there will always be an inherent risk of damage, we have attempted to factor as many of the variables into the design itself rather than relying on the expertise of the user. Even the choice to use a plastic was not based on economy; the first prototypes were experimenting with metal, but the stiffness of a plastic combined with just the right amount of flexibility to conform perfectly with the surfaces leads to high reliability with sufficient robustness to withstand numerous uses.

With a very low incidence of damage and hundreds of inserts removed at this point, we feel that we have achieved that goal.

2. How do I put the new bezel insert I purchased from you on my watch?

The tool has been designed to be as simple to use as possible. The first part of the operation to remove the insert is as simple as selecting the right diameter on the remover ring. There are three different diameters: one on either end for the two inner diameters of the Submariner and GMT models, and the step on the outside is for the larger Sea-Dweller inserts.

You want the ring to fit inside the metal part of the bezel and rest on the ceramic of the insert. It should be fairly snug, with little to no play.

Once you have found the right diameter, you will place those face up on the center column inside the bottom of the tool. Ensure that they are flat and there’s no tilting, and then screw on the top of the tool.

Before applying too much pressure, just check visually that the outside of the top is aligned with the outer ring of the bezel–you should see just a thin band of metal around the outside of the ceramic. It should contact the whole bezel, flat around the outside.  If this final check is good, then you are ready for the removal process.

Screwing the tool tight down against the bezel, the easiest way to remove the insert is to simply take the tool between your hands and press the sides together. If the insert does not pop out, screw down a little more and try again. The threads of the tool ensure that there is no way to press more than a millimeter or so–far enough to remove the insert, but only that far.

When the bezel is removed, then the bezel and loose insert can be removed and the insert can be safely stored. It is essential to get it into a plastic box or other hard-sided container as soon as possible, as they are extremely fragile and returning to the customer in anything less is very risky.

To install the new one, the process is reversed; you place the empty bezel flat on the bottom inside the tool, and then place the new insert inside of it. It will not lay perfectly flat on top–that is fine, just make sure that the sides are aligned and there isn’t a gap in any of the edges.

Place the installation ring above it, aligning the hole in the ring with the luminous pearl if applicable. The insert should be aligned so that the 12 o’ clock will line up properly, especially on the GMT models. We will have a more in-depth tutorial on how to measure and align this in the future.

When the insert is aligned and the bezel is centered under the installer ring, simply screw down the top of the tool and the pressure should pop the new insert into place. If being installed by a watchmaker, the insert installation process can also be done with a press, as installing inserts is generally safer with that tool than removal.

3. Will the pressure from the tool crush the pearl on my submariner insert when installing the new bezel insert?

If aligned properly, there is no risk to the luminous pearl on your insert. The installer ring has a gap on it for preventing exactly this issue. If placed improperly, then it is possible to cause damage, but we have attempted to make it as intuitive as possible.

Ultimately, there is an inherent risk to this modification process, but our goal is to make it as safe as it can be and we continue to pursue new changes that make the process easier and better for the end user.